Fifty Shades of Purple Spandex Marlborough Underwired Bra

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This is the 5th Marlborough bra I’ve made. The first 4 were all in the same fabric so I only blogged the first one but it has quickly become my go to day to day bra. However I am continuing to shrink so the straps are now falling off my shouldres (indicating the band is too big) and the cups are feeling a little empty. I made my first versions in size 40DD but for this purple one I chose to go down one band size and one cup size to a 38DD. If you’re wondering why the letter size of my cup did change that’s because when you go down one band size in order to stay in the same volume cup you would normally have to go up one cup letter to DDD.


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For the main fabric I used a printed spandex and stretch lace which will soon be featured in a kit in my etsy store Arte Crafts.  I did not underline the band with a power net though that will be an option in the kit. I did line the cups and bridge with a non woven nylon stretch lining which I dyed purple. For the straps I used a 1/2″ Black Satin faced plush back elastic with 2 pairs of silver sliders for adjustment. For the underarms I used a 1/2″ black plush back picot finishing elastic and black 3/4″ plush back elastic with a scalloped edge for the band. I used a black 3 hook and eye bra back closure and purple predyed channelling. The bow I stole of an old bra though it would have been easy enough to make with ribbon.

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So how does it fit? Pretty well. The band is a little tight so rides down but I think this will be ok with another 1lb or two of weight loss. I really like how firm the cups feel with the non stretch lining. It’s different from using 15 denier tricot since it has virtually no stretch in either direction. It’s what they use in RTW bras and it really makes a big difference when using a very stretchy fabric. The lining is free floating but next time I might use spray or fusible web to create a more laminated style fabric.

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You’ll notice that one of the powerbars is lined in black. That’s because when I dyed the lining I only dyed enough to cut out the pieces I needed. I didn’t count on losing a piece. Twice. I actually picked out the cup when I refound the missing piece only to lose it again. So I just have to be content to having a humility powerbar in a contrasting color. It is the same type of lining so there was not problem with compatibility.

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Other touches was using a little white panty elastic to create some curve along the top cup to prevent spillage and using channeling on the sideband to create a bit of control. I used a size 44 regular underwire.

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I plan to make matching panties out of this fabric with Merckwaerdigh’s MIX30 pattern. Because this bra is 50 shades of purple it was hard to find a matching thread color though I did use contrasting top and bobbin thread on the elastic.

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