Ikat Foam Cup Boyleston Bra

Ikat-front

Now I’m settled into the new Arte Crafts office I was able to get some sample sewing done. My new office isn’t huge but there is room for a big cutting table and a dedicated table for my sewing machine so for my project sewn there I choose a foam cup bra. I used Orange Lingerie’s Boylston pattern.

I trimmed the seam allowances off the foam cups and sewed them together with a slightly less dense satin stitch as I posted previously. The fabric is a ikat print chintz. It has zero stretch. Originally I bought it from Downtown LA to make a top but the print has a flaw that would be more noticeable in a larger garment. So I thought it would make a pretty bra. The powernet, 1/2″ elastic and hook and eye I dyed a long time ago before I even sold bra making supplies. I used RIT dyes and you can see the stitching did not dye at all. (Almost all of the hooks I now stock dye all the way through thread and all)

Ikat-

The mix of different blues in this project made it hard to thread match and I changed colors part way through the project to have it match better. The bridge and cradle was lined with non stretch cup lining which I dyed to match using the same dye formula. The pattern only suggests lining the bridge but because I was using a woven I underlined the cradle also. This does affect the fit of the band so if you are doing this you need to lengthen the band to compensate for the reduced amount of stretch since the only stretch will come from the powernet.

Ikat-black

Overall I’m pretty happy with the way this bra turned out however it is smaller (even compensating for the reduced stretch) than the Marlborough of the same size so that is something to consider also. The hook and eyes came out a little messy I need to resit down with my own post about sewing on bra back closures SUCCESSFULLY and follow them. I have been rushing to finish my last few bras just so I can get finished object applause and have been messing up the one skill I used to feel so confident about.

My Beautiful Disaster Bra

I sewed the lower cup in upside down so then the cup didn’t fit the cradle but so determined was I for a finished sample I just trimmed to fit. I also didn’t bother with matching thread. Yet some how it still looks pretty and shows off the lace well.

It has no wires. It should have wires but it just doesn’t.

Do I still get finished object applause?

Navy and Red Marlborough Bra

 

I don’t get much time to sew bras anymore since sales at Arte Crafts Bra Making Supplies have been through the roof and I’ve been packing orders like crazy and when I’m not packing I’m building the forum at bramakingforum.com but I carved out sometime to make another Marlbough.

I used a 7″ Red Galloon Lace with 3/8″ Navy Blue Picot Elastic, 1/2″ Navy Satin Strap Elastic with matching rings and sliders. I used Navy Blue 3/8″ Underwire Channeling and a 4 hook wide Red Hook and Eye Closure. I lined it with flesh non stretch cup and bridge lining and red bra bows.

I used the same pattern as last time but modified it to the scallop of the lace would conform to the bottom edge of the bra. If there is enough interest I’ll try and write a tutorial.

All supplies are available in my bramaking.supplies and Etsy store but I’ve put together a bra kit so you can make your own. Red and Navy Bra Kit

Up next a pink and peach bra.

Fifty Shades of Purple Spandex Marlborough Underwired Bra

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This is the 5th Marlborough bra I’ve made. The first 4 were all in the same fabric so I only blogged the first one but it has quickly become my go to day to day bra. However I am continuing to shrink so the straps are now falling off my shouldres (indicating the band is too big) and the cups are feeling a little empty. I made my first versions in size 40DD but for this purple one I chose to go down one band size and one cup size to a 38DD. If you’re wondering why the letter size of my cup did change that’s because when you go down one band size in order to stay in the same volume cup you would normally have to go up one cup letter to DDD.


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For the main fabric I used a printed spandex and stretch lace which will soon be featured in a kit in my etsy store Arte Crafts.  I did not underline the band with a power net though that will be an option in the kit. I did line the cups and bridge with a non woven nylon stretch lining which I dyed purple. For the straps I used a 1/2″ Black Satin faced plush back elastic with 2 pairs of silver sliders for adjustment. For the underarms I used a 1/2″ black plush back picot finishing elastic and black 3/4″ plush back elastic with a scalloped edge for the band. I used a black 3 hook and eye bra back closure and purple predyed channelling. The bow I stole of an old bra though it would have been easy enough to make with ribbon.

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So how does it fit? Pretty well. The band is a little tight so rides down but I think this will be ok with another 1lb or two of weight loss. I really like how firm the cups feel with the non stretch lining. It’s different from using 15 denier tricot since it has virtually no stretch in either direction. It’s what they use in RTW bras and it really makes a big difference when using a very stretchy fabric. The lining is free floating but next time I might use spray or fusible web to create a more laminated style fabric.

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You’ll notice that one of the powerbars is lined in black. That’s because when I dyed the lining I only dyed enough to cut out the pieces I needed. I didn’t count on losing a piece. Twice. I actually picked out the cup when I refound the missing piece only to lose it again. So I just have to be content to having a humility powerbar in a contrasting color. It is the same type of lining so there was not problem with compatibility.

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Other touches was using a little white panty elastic to create some curve along the top cup to prevent spillage and using channeling on the sideband to create a bit of control. I used a size 44 regular underwire.

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I plan to make matching panties out of this fabric with Merckwaerdigh’s MIX30 pattern. Because this bra is 50 shades of purple it was hard to find a matching thread color though I did use contrasting top and bobbin thread on the elastic.